Check here for answers to basic questions:

Q. How do I measure propshaft to pad relationship?

A. The simplest method is to:
1) Level the pad by tilting the trailer with a bubble level on the pad.
2) Place the bubble level on the anti-ventilation plate and trim the engine until level.
3) Measure distance from pad to floor/ground
4) Measure distance from propshaft centerline to floor/ground
5) Subtract PAD distance from PROPSHAFT distance. The resultant number is the distance above (+) or below (-) the pad.

Q. I have a lot of steering torque. What is the proper adjustment for my torque tab?

A. You are referring to the trim tab on your anti-ventilation plate. This small "fin" has virtually no effect on engine/prop torque when the boat is running fully on the pad. Except for its secondary function as a sacrificial anode, it is unnecessary.
A skeg mounted TORQUE tab will eliminate torque in most applications. These tabs are widely available and may be pop rivetted on, but we recommend welding for safe operation as the rivets will eventually loosen and there is risk of shearing the tab off as well.

Q. Should I add a nose cone/low water pickup?

A. Generally, the answer is NO. A nose cone will scrape speed if not run high enough. This usually requires extensive propwork or an exotic prop. Except for lightweight, "overhorsepowered" or HiP rigs capable of running around 80 MPH (nominal blowout speed for most lower units), we rarely recommend a cone.

Q. I'm running X RPM and Y MPH. Shouldn't I be running faster?

A. For this and other questions relating to speed and efficiency loss (slip), we recommend downloading the Prop Workshop calculator available on the KenCook.net TECHLINKS page. This program automatically adds 1" to the entered pitch for calculations and is set for default 90% efficiency. You can determine your efficiency loss by entering gear ratio, Rs and speed then selecting "slip" and "Calc".

Q. Do I need a different pitch when changing from an Aluminum to a Stainless prop?

A. Typically, you need to drop 2 pitches when going from aluminum to stainless just to run the same rpm's

Q. How much change in RPM can I expect when changing prop pitch?

A. You get a change of ~200 RPM for every pitch change.

Q. How do I check for engine tilt and centering?

A. Engine tilt and/or centering, depending on degree, can produce handling problems or unusual torque at any point from planing speeds to WOT. The following procedures may seem a bit extreme to most boaters and is generally only necessary when handling problems are experienced. How much tilt or offset is acceptable also varies considerably with hull type and top speeds.
I can present one example: I had severe handling problems with a PadV when at WOT. Inspection showed the engine to be mounted 1/8" off-center. Remounting the engine resulted in a significant improvement.

Engine tilt is fairly easy:
1) You will need a bubble level and a plumb line.
2) Jack up the trailer as needed to make the pad perfectly level (bubble level).
3) Tilt engine until anti-ventilation plate is level fore/aft (bubble level)
4) Check engine for plumb w/plumb line or bubble level (if you can access a smooth, flat area such as the underside of the anti-ventilation plate). The advantage of the plumb line is that any error is measureable vs a subjective result with the bubble level.
5) This process can be reversed, leveling the engine first.

Generally, the objective is to find gross error of 1/4" or so. If there is a jackplate, assure that it is set evenly. Although an extreme case, I've seen as much as 3/8" tilt injected by a badly set (from the FACTORY) plate. It should be noted that, although not recommended, offsetting a jackplate can also correct smaller errors.

Engine centering can be a bit tricky, especially on a hull with a lot of built-in setback. Although somewhat complicated, this is the only way I know to ASSURE centering with the engine mounted.
1) You will need a tape measure, plumb line, bubble level, masking tape to place on the hull to mark on and a thin line marker.
2) Level pad as above to assure plumb line will be perpendicular.
3) Measure pad to determine exact C/L (centerline), tape and mark.
4) Measure out from C/L as far as necessary to clear engine/jackplate mounts on both sides, tape and mark.
5) Drop plumb line along marks from 4), tape and mark both sides high enough to strike a horizontal line to top of transom or engine/jackplate mount.
6) Measure from each of these marks to the engine/jackplate mounts.
7) Subtract to get any difference and divide by two (2) for engine to pad offset. Offset direction is toward the smaller of the two primary measurements.

Now you know how much, if any, your engine is tilted or offset. How much is too much? I can't answer that. A call to the factory may be in order to see if you need to remount.