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| Date, Sender
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Message |
| 03/13/01, P.B.: | "I was told that a jack plate would help front end from porpoising (bouncing around), is that true? I am plannin on getting a manual 6"?, for 18-6 Skeeter c/w 150 Yamaha." |
| 03/14/01, Setup: | Porpoising can have many causes. Even a properly set up
boat MAY porpoise at certain speed ranges and trim settings. There may
be several solutions to your problem as there is more than one variable
at work. The following are generalizations, but should put you on the
right track: 1) I will assume you are referring to porpoising at WOT (and that your hull has no rocker). In this case, the prop is failing to carry the load. This does not mean it's a "bad prop". If you can trim down slightly and the problem "goes away", prop rework will probably solve it. 2) I advocate a jackplate on everything but the kitchen sink and am not sure one wouldn't help there too. A jackplate is the ONLY way to assure your engine height is right for optimum performance. Adding a plate MAY help your porpoising, but it will definitely help with overall performance. I am copying Rich on this and will let you know if there are further recommendations or comments. Please let us know the results of your tests. (Ken) |
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| 03/13/01, Ron: | "Hi, how are you? I would like some help on setting up my boat. I have a 1994 Champion 190 DCX with a new 2000,200H.P. Evinrude Ficht purchase last Aug. I have all the break in time done and I'm ready to try to get more out of this boat/motor combination. Do you have any information regarding setups of this type? Props,engine heights or setback amouts. I am running a renergade 25" prop at about 5800 RPMS at a motors height of 3" below the pad. The dealer had it set up at 4" below the pad and I could only get about 5700 RPMS at that time so I began to raise the motor, the RPMS went up with the speed but the hole shot for this combination is not good. That was at the end of last season now it's another season and I have time to think of what direction I should take. I had a 1994 150H.P. Fastrike on the boat before the 200H.P.and the hole shot was much better than it is now,with the same prop. I'm hoping that you can give me some advise on why this is." |
| 03/16/01, Setup: |
With the additional power of the new motor, the hole shot is lagging
because of a torque blow out. This was not present with the 150 because
of the lack of power and the holeshot was being produced by motor bog.
The cure would be to address the prop. The cup on the prop can be modified
to control the excess slip at the time of holeshot and produce greater
overall performance. Don't necessarily set your height by a ruler, set
it by water pressure. If you go up until you loose water pressure--gain
rpm's--loose speed all at the same time, then drop it 1/2" and it will
be right. Set back should not be over 8". |
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| 03/18/01, Randy: | "I recently purchased my first high performance bass boat, a 1990 20' champion deep-v,narrow body with a 200 mariner. I bought this boat because everyone said it was a great rough water boat. Can you suggest a good prop to start out with? I currently have one prop, a 4 blade predator 23 pitch. It gets out of the hole good and tops out at about 58mph @ 5400 rpm. Is this as good as it gets? Should I use a 6" offset or jack plate? I fish Lake Mead, Lake Mohave, And Lake Powell. Long runs and nasty weather are common. Can I achieve a faster boat and still have a good handling boat in rough water or does this hull design prohibit higher speeds? Also This boat does not have power steering Should I conceder an after market one and which one would you suggest?" |
| 03/18/01, Setup: | You are presently very close to the numbers
(59) for your prop, Rs and gear ratio. The low Rs are probably a combination
of engine height and altitude. Generally, we run 25 Trophys on that rig here in Texas (elevations around 500' or less) and turn them 5800-6000 @ 68-70 MPH. We recommend a 6" plate as well. Higher elevations will require going down in pitch, especially if it is a carburated engine. Several of the guys I know out West have two props and change depending on elevation. In your case, I don't recommend setup for max top end as it will degrade rough water performance. I've been on Mead and it can get nasty! Your alternative is an hydraulic plate so that you can adjust height based on conditions (I sometimes lower mine as much as 3"). Add the jackplate first, then test with your existing prop. I recommend borrowing both a 23 and a 24 Trophy to test as well. You will have to adjust height for each one and, if the Trophys are PVS, you will have to try different plug configurations to determine best holeshot. Once optimum is achieved (see the article on setup), you will probably need to come down at least an inch for best rough water performance. You can do a lot with the trim and good driving technique though, so testing for your comfort level will determine final height. I've been running hydraulic steering since '97 and won't leave home without it! My personal experience is with Seastar Pro, but you have several options you can explore. Although mine is factory installed, a "do-it-yourself" install is possible if you are mechanically inclined and follow directions well. Please keep us informed on your progress. (Ken) |
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| 03/26/01, G.L.: | I'm not sure if the other message I sent went thru so I will send it again. I have a Tracker Targa 1900 Walleye Boat with a merc. 175 EFI and 23" High Five. I turn about 5700 RPM'S at about 50 MPH. The boat has a hull weight of 1500 Lbs. and I suppose I have a 100 to 150 pounds of gear in the bow compartments. It has a 40 Gal. fuel tank and twin 20 Gal. (I Think) live wells and 5 Gal. Bait well. I was told that a Jack Plate probrobly wouldn't help and that they had never put one on a walleye boat. However, I seem to think that by installing a Jack plate and then switching to a Trophy with 24 or maybe 25 pitch I would get more performance. What do you think on this. |
| 03/26/01, Setup: |
I received your original message and had composed the following: "As
you said, I'm not really used to the Walleye boats, but what most of
us are looking for in our boats is overall performance with hopes of
a great top end as a bonus. If we think of your Walleye rig as just
a "vertically challenged" padV and apply the math, the expected speed
@ 5800 would be 63+ with a 23. Hull design, load and the HighFive would
definitely account for speed loss, but I would expect only 5-8 MPH,
not 13. Your 150 pound bow loading is probably a major factor in the
degraded performance. Have you tried a Trophy? If you can turn the H5
at those Rs, I think you may find a 24 Trophy to your liking. You will
have to try different PVS plug configurations to obtain best holeshot.
I suspect you will find the Trophy carries well and will yield higher
speeds or allow you to back off, maintaining your current speed at lower
Rs and thereby increasing fuel economy." but had to leave for a tourney
Friday. As you can see, our thinking is parallel. Additionally, my impulse
is ALWAYS to add a jackplate, if nothing else, to assure the engine
height can readily be tuned to best position. I do recommend trying
the Trophy first, then deciding whether to add the plate. If you add
the plate, you must remember that setup for best top end WILL degrade
rough water performance somewhat and find the "happy medium" at a lower
setting. |
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